Thanks for that run down. Those ECL86 triode/pentodes [yes, 3 watts each] need phase splitters unless the triodes are connected as a long tailed pair? A bit low powered really at 6 watts a pair [a Dansette had one of those, or was it UCL82/6?!! not 6.3 volts heater, I think mains fed heaters with dropper resistor to avoid mains transformers] which is why I expected larger ones like EL34. My aging eyesght isn't what it was. I should also have realised that the FM tuner part would need some EF8x's. Yes, the underneath isn't pretty is it!
I think I recall the triodes being used as a long-tailed pair in the amplifier section. There was some gain available in the preamp section to get the required drive. I'd have to find my Wireless World valve data to work it out for sure. I never knew the pin-out of an ECL86 (unlike the EF86 and the ECC8*/12A*7/606* double triodes.)
I think the earlier Dansettes were the UCL series. You had to be careful because if the mains plug was wired up incorrectly the the record deck would be live. They were slightly better than some of the AC/DC radios of the time which had line cord where the dropper resistor was in the cable so that shortening the cable would increase the heater volts.
I have a Leak Stereo 70 with Stereofetic tuner feeding bloody great speakers (Goodmans 12in drivers, mid range and tweeter) in enclosures I build myself about 36 years ago. It's set up in the attic - my partner won't allow them downstairs! The sound, I think, is great. Well I would wouldn't I!
There is one problem, the right hand channel looses volume sometimes but switching it on and off quickly restores the sound. Any ideas? Andy
A bit odd that, there's no software in a Stereo 70!! Assuming all your leads are sound and connectors clean we're looking at a possible fault/poor connection in the amp somewhere. Does it happen on all inputs? At that vintage all the controls are direct with no relays or electronic switches or controls. Do the volume, balance and tone controls crackle in operation? If so the tracks are worn from use and this could cause a dropout. Does it happen at a particular volume level? Does the volume control also act as the On/Off switch - I can't remember. If so, it may be a worn track and you're fixing it by rotating the knob - or by operating the switch. There is a mono/stereo switch somewhere [also a filter??] in fact there's a whole row of them!!] as well as a selector switch; all of their contacts need checking by waggling the switches gently [she's an old lady] a few times and perhaps a squirt of Electrolube contact cleaner would help on old equipment like that.
If none of the above something more exotic! I assume you've googled?? The fact that it comes back to life is encouraging because it means nothing has failed. On the inside there are some printed circuit daughter cards that must have connector rows with the main board. They are held in place by a clamp of some kind!! [can't remember]. Something may be amiss with one those connector strips??? Take the top off [SWITCH OFF AND DISCONNECT MAINS FIRST!] Waggle them gently!!
Not a bad amp in its day, it was built with Silicon transistors [BCxxx, 2N3055 etc - see manual and circuit here:
http://www.magafox.com/tubeamps/Leak...20COMBINED.pdf
rather than Germanium which the Stereo 30 before it used. Not a very good one that!!
Thanks for that, Gordon. I'm just off on holiday so I'll have a look when I get back. Andy
It seems to have righted itself now! Andy
go on holiday often!
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